Amangiri

Amangiri offers the perfect blend of serenity and adventure 

By Ottocina Ryan

“The thing about climbing,” my guide J.J. says as we begin our ascent of a towering rock formation, “Is that you’re present. There’s no yesterday, no tomorrow, no taxes.” He’s right. As we scale Amangiri’s Via Ferrata (which means iron path) all I’m focused on is the next iron rung. The world beyond the rock fades away, especially as I cross the two suspension bridges. J.J. calls them edamame (the first balance beam-width one is the appetizer) and sashimi (the longer, wider one is the entree, if you will). If it takes being high in the air on an iron beam to make my to-do list vanish, maybe that’s a bigger issue, but I’m going to attribute it to Amangiri’s magic being the ultimate cure. 

From the top, the view is incredible–Amangiri nearly disappears into the desert landscape, blending seamlessly with its surrounding 920 acres. Three hours after departing, safely back on the ground, we return to the resort. I join my family at the pool–an oasis I’ve ogled on Pinterest for years. Elegant daybeds line the cerulean pool curved around a 165-million-year-old rock escarpment. We stretch out on a daybed, soaking in the surreal view, and order lunch–the wild mushroom pizza and perfected seabass tacos we couldn’t get enough of yesterday. The staff, always one step ahead, ask if we'd like dessert delivered to the room. They somehow anticipate every want you didn’t know you had. Soft peach cookies and scoops of vanilla ice cream await us in the suite, beating us by just a moment.

The room is minimalist and modern, with earth tones that echo the desert. The landscape truly takes center stage-–the patinaed concrete structures that house the 34 suites simultaneously meld with and frame the expansive views. The beauty of Amangiri’s isolated location is that when you’re here, you’re here–fully immersed in the tranquility of the property and the company of your companions. Yet, if you’re so inclined to explore, you’re a stone’s throw from Lake Powell and slot canyons, and two hours from Zion, Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon. Of course, Amangiri can facilitate seamless visits to any or all of these outdoor Meccas. 

As the day winds down, I return to the main pavilion where the scent of juniper wood burning in the fireplaces enhances the cozy ambiance. The atmosphere is casual and most guests are dressed as if they’re heading out to run errands. I join the 4:30 p.m. dreamcatcher workshop. An activity I wouldn’t typically seek out–but am so glad I did. Pearl, a Navajo Native American, leads me and a few other guests in weaving dreamcatchers. We bond over how tricky it is at first, and once we get the hang of it, it’s meditative, looping the cord around and around, adding stones—I select mostly black ones for more sleep—until it reaches the center. I leave the workshop with a dream catcher, a deeper understanding of Navajo culture and new friends. 

Afterwards, we relax on the couches with tea while watching the sunset, then move to a table for dinner. The dishes are Southwest inspired, each one is simple in presentation and incredible in flavor. We begin with Northern bison spring rolls and Rocky Mountain elk tartare, followed by perfectly cooked steak and salmon. Layla sits contently in her highchair and Amangiri branded bib, while Andrew and I play backgammon and enjoy a quiet evening. 

The next morning we order room service to our patio, gazing out at the vast desert. Surrounded by the still, quiet landscape, it feels as if we were transported to another planet and the only ones there. The avocado toast and inch-thick cast iron pancake topped with macerated berries are both…otherworldly. 

I begin the day with a massage, as the soreness from the Via Ferrata sets in. Even the journey to the spa is a sensory experience; the entrance corridor is pitch black aside from a grouping of flickering candles, coaxing me into the spa. My masseuse leads me outside to the treatment room and, as my dreamcatcher would have it, I drift off almost immediately and awake feeling completely rejuvenated. That relaxed, peaceful feeling remains with me the rest of the stay. 

While Andrew enjoys the cold plunge, sauna, and spacious gym, I take Layla to the wildlife presentation in the main pavilion. Amangiri’s daily activities are a true highlight and engaging for guests of any age or background. A local wildlife rehabilitator introduces us to several snakes and scorpions, explaining their behaviors and habitats. She then lets us hold the snakes–even Layla eagerly pets them.

For a (slight) change of scenery, we have dinner at Camp Sarika, Amangiri’s tented retreat (think luxe safari lodge). The tasting menu is accompanied by live music; guests gather in the lounge to listen to a guitarist playing Johnny Cash and James Taylor covers. When our pistachio olive oil cake plates are sparkling clean we are chauffeured back to Amangiri in a BMW from their fleet, enjoying the brilliant stars the whole five-minute-drive.

Our final morning it’s a toss up between joining the daily yoga class and guided hike to Broken Arrow Cave, or doing nothing at all. We pick the latter, with a side of Marble Canyon French Toast. As we depart, I recall my answer when J.J., the Via Ferrata guide, asked how Amangiri compared to other resorts I’ve stayed at: “Nothing is over the top or trying too hard, yet nothing is missing. It’s luxurious, yet totally comfortable. Everything is just…perfect.”